Climbing Gear – QUAD anchor
I consider a QUAD to be the best way to equalize a two bolt anchor. In this video I am showing a way of transferring from a QUAD to the rappel.
I’ve been using QUADs for two years after reading about it in a book written by Bob Gaines and John Long. For building a quad you’ll need a 20 feet of thin high tech cord tied in a loop using triple fisherman — the following cords worked the best for me:
Edelweiss 5.5mm Aramid Cord
Strength: 18kN (4050 lbf)
Weight: 23 g/m
BlueWater 5 mm x 20′ Titan Cord
Grams Per Meter: 18.2
Tensile Strength: 3100 lbf.
Sterling Power Cord 6mm x 21′
6mm PowerCord is stronger than standard nylon, breaking at a astronomical 4800lb
WARNING: I am not a rock climbing instructor! Use this video and materials at your own risk. Hire a rock climbing guide to show you the proper way of using this equipment. Never clip all four strands of a QUAD — the 4th strand is there to ensure you don’t slip of the anchor if one of the bolts fails.